Aprll 19, 2022<\/strong><\/p>\n Back from San Miguel de Allende. Me-he-co.<\/strong><\/p>\n Back to the same ol\u2019, same ol\u2019. LA, California. Going on 40 years now!<\/strong><\/p>\n Like most trips, upon your inevitable return, why does it always seem \u2013 so\u00a0<\/strong>exactly the same? Like you were never gone at all? Whether it was nine days or ten, like this trip, or two, three, or sometimes even eight months, like others, when you come \u201chome\u201d, it\u2019s almost always like \u2013 you were never away. Everything is so familiar. Nothing has changed \u2013 no matter how rich, how challenging, how eventful, how life-changing, your adventure was.<\/strong><\/p>\n This trip, with my Indonesian-born family, Surya, my wife, and Exsel, my son, who spent his, I hope memorable, 15th birthday in San Miguel, was far different than the first time I came in 1997, arriving first with my 21-year-old Chicano-American \u201cmentee\u201d, Alejandro, from LA\u2019s Pico Union barrio, right near where I taught at USC for thirty-one years in South-Central, Los Angeles. Back then in 1997, SMA was still a low-profile but quickly-growing international ex-pat community mixed with a deeply traditional, local Catholic Mexican one, attracting countless American painters, musicians, and Vietnam vets, but still nothing compared to what it has become today, in terms of wealth, investment, real estate development, and the now exploding and well-heeled, both young parent and ever-expanding international retirement community.<\/strong><\/p>\n Yet gratifyingly and ever-wonderfully, behind every plain or beautifully and ornately-carved wooden door, still lies an unforeseen courtyard \u2013 opening to an architectural secret \u2013 of a three hundred year-old local home \u2013 still owned by the original family, who has quite profitably turned it into a perfectly-appointed Airbnb, where we, in fact, stayed economically and in gracious comfort, more than a couple of times. Or, equally likely, the home and courtyard have been purchased by a foreign investor who has gracefully turned it into a high-end restaurant, delicious bakery, lamp shop, spa, jewelry shop, or\u2026. another gallery, gallery, gallery! There just seem to be so many artists and galleries in SMA, I wonder how they all survive.<\/strong><\/p>\n And all this\u2026 amidst a city full of 400-year-old, Spanish-colonial Catholic churches, large and small, each with their humble and devout parishioners, each with their daily masses and religious ceremonies, bright and colorful Mexicano rituals, their\u00a0tortillas, churros,\u00a0<\/em>and\u00a0enchiladas<\/em>, and their bells, bells, bells, ringing day and night, along their cobblestone streets and adobe-painted walls of yellow, brown, and burnt sienna.<\/strong><\/p>\n Then, just walk any night into the center of the town, into the main square in front of the shining church, the golden-lit, Baroque-Mexican jewel, \u201cLa Parroquia\u201d. Sit on any one of the many wrought iron benches there, amongst the locals and tourists alike. You will be welcome. There will be no panhandlers or homeless to disturb your peace of mind. Tell me then, if your heart and spirit do not reach up to the sky above, and beyond\u2026 to whatever God you believe in. To whatever connects you to the rest of the planet, to the rest of humanity, and to infinity.<\/strong><\/p>\n This was San Miguel de Allende in 1997, and is still, in 2022.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014<\/strong><\/p>\n But as familiar as San Miguel is to itself over these last twenty-five years, it\u2019s exactly this familiarity\u2026 that makes me notice\u2026 how much\u00a0I\u2019ve changed<\/em>\u00a0over the same quarter century. How I\u2019ve aged\u2026 become a more careful and timid traveler. No longer \u2013 the carefree and footloose bachelor \u201cmendicant poet\u201d, as Spalding Gray, once called himself, in his infamous \u201cSwimming to Cambodia\u201d monologue. How I\u2019m no longer the vagrant\/tramp\/wanderer, improvising my way around the world from town to town, calling \u201chome\u201d wherever I rest my head, as I liked to do throughout my risky and itinerant \u201ce-travels\u201d, all around our beautiful and lonely planet for so many years.<\/strong><\/p>\n No, now I\u2019ve been a \u201cfamily man\u201d, ever since I brought Surya here from Indonesia on August 3, 2001, and Exsel here on May 5, 2015. I became a husband on Valentine\u2019s Day, 2003, and a father on July 6, 2016. Two things I never wanted, or expected, to become. I don\u2019t travel alone anymore, I travel as a threesome. And even that\u2019s been severely tested because\u2026 it took Exsel SIX YEARS to get his Green Card\u2026 which meant he couldn\u2019t leave the country safely\u2026 and be guaranteed re-entry\u2026 without \u201cpermanent residency\u201d. In fact, he entered America on a simple \u201ctourist visa\u201d in 2015, which quickly expired after two months, and he was actually an \u201cillegal alien\u201d in the eyes of US immigration (USCIS) for almost all of those same six years, who could have been deported at any time! Turns out that my international \u201crisk-taking\u201d was not with banditos in Mexico or drug smugglers in the poppy fields of the \u201cGolden Triangle\u201d of Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar, but more with the Department of Homeland Security right in my own back yard.<\/strong><\/p>\n There was one exception in late 2018 where I was invited to teach theater in Moscow in the middle of the white Russian winter.<\/strong><\/p>\n I went alone for just about two weeks. I flew the family coup and somehow, they managed just fine without \u201cPak Trules\u201d (silent \u201ck\u201d, that\u2019s what Exsel and Surya call me at home), for a fortnight. I WhatsApp-ed them from the Moscow hotel, and walked through the heavy falling, wet snow, as I tramped around the beautiful city and crossed golden-lit Moskva River, stood in Red Square next to Lenin\u2019s mausoleum, while having no idea at the time, that in 2022, Mr. Putin would march 100,000 Russian troops into my grandparents\u2019 native Ukraine in a \u201cspecial military operation\u201d.<\/strong><\/p>\n But back to this trip south of the border, and how this one time, vagabond traveler, yours Trulesly, literally found himself tripping over himself, both on his way \u2013 to San Miguel \u2013 and back. That is, tripping \u2013 physically psychologically, and metaphorically. Let me explain\u2026.<\/strong><\/p>\n First, I have to let you know\u2026 that even in the past\u2026 that every time, before an international trip\u2026 to \u201cparts unknown\u201d\u2026. I\u2019ve worried and fretted. It\u2019s who I am. I\u2019m a life-long worrier. It comes in the family. My father was also an expert and life-long worrier. The name of his C-47 plane, of which he was sergeant\/mechanic-in-charge during WW2 was \u201cThe Worry Wart\u201d. The name was painted on the side of the fuselage. \u201cWorry Wart\u201d. It meant my father worried about absolutely everything that could go wrong with the plane\u2026 so nothing would\u2026 keeping the crew worry-free\u2026 or at least as much as a crew could be in the middle of a world war.<\/strong><\/p>\n I inherited the worry gene from my Dad. Along with his nightmares. Every night, I wake up in extreme anxiety. On the verge of annihilation. Destruction Pending doom and disaster. From nightmares as vivid as hell. Then just as quickly, they\u2019re lost and forgotten by morning\u2019s consciousness. Except\u2026 they\u2019re translated into daytime\u2026 worry. \u201cI don\u2019t have enough money to retire on.\u201d \u201cMy son will be deported.\u201d \u201cMy cancer will come back.\u201d \u201cMy wife will leave me.\u201d Translated to travel: \u201cI don\u2019t have the right documents.\u201d \u201cI\u2019ll miss my plane.\u201d \u201cI\u2019ll get sick over there.\u201d \u201cI\u2019ll never get home.\u201d You get the point. I\u2019m a worrier.<\/strong><\/p>\n Then once I get on the plane\u2026 forgetaboutit. I\u2019m in the flow. I\u2019m Mr. Improvisation. No plans. No worries. \u201cNo reservations\u201d.<\/strong><\/p>\n So naturally, going to San Miguel, my first international family trip with Exsel and Surya \u2013 all three of us together \u2013 for the first time ever- was a worry ordeal.<\/strong><\/p>\n And then\u2026 the universe cooperated.<\/strong><\/p>\n You see, we were first supposed to go during Exsel\u2019s Christmas break. We had the plane booked, the Airbnbs booked, our friends of friends in Mexico informed, we were ready to go on New Year\u2019s Day, 2022. Then\u2026 on December 24, 2021, Ho Ho Ho!<\/strong><\/p>\n I test positive for Covid. But, hell\u2026 we\u2019re still going. I\u2019ll just fly back from San Miguel to Tijuana, and Surya will pick me up there \u2013 or I\u2019ll walk across the border and we\u2019ll drive back from San Ysidro, just south of San Diego on the American side of the border.<\/strong><\/p>\n But then\u2026 on December 29, Surya also\u2026 tests positive. Happy New Year!<\/strong><\/p>\n Exsel can\u2019t pick us up in TJ. Or in San Ysidro. We can\u2019t infect our dogsitter with Covid\u2026.<\/strong><\/p>\n We cancel.<\/strong><\/p>\n And reluctantly, re-schedule for Easter Break. April 7-17.<\/strong><\/p>\n I worry some more. But I get new house\/dogsitters. I buy new plane tickets, even though I still haven\u2019t gotten the refund from the first cancelled AeroMexico flight.<\/strong><\/p>\n And then\u2026 like Chicken Little\u2026 I wait for the sky to fall\u2026. again.<\/strong><\/p>\n But\u2026. it doesn\u2019t.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014<\/p>\n On April 7, .we Uber to LAX, the Los Angeles international airport, and we take off for Mexico City\u2026 on time.<\/strong><\/p>\n We arrive\u2026 on time.<\/strong><\/p>\n Then\u2026 we sit on the plane\u2026 before we deboard\u2026 for almost an hour!<\/strong><\/p>\n We have to take a shuttle bus from the plane to the terminal. We can\u2019t get on the first shuttle, it\u2019s full. We\u2019re held back for the next one.<\/strong><\/p>\n I\u2019m the third person on the empty shuttle. I step up\u2026 and collapse to my knees. I can\u2019t make the step up. My legs are too weak.<\/strong><\/p>\n I\u2019m bending there on the floor of the bus, seemingly praying, on both knees, with my suitcase in front of me and my backpack behind me.<\/strong><\/p>\n I think I\u2019ve made a \u201ccool move\u201d, by not falling flat on my face and not losing my four front teeth, but Exsel runs up behind me.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u201cYou ok, Pak Trules?\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n \u201cYeah, I\u2019m fine,\u201d I say, trying to get up.<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n He lifts me up by one arm. Other passengers give me a wide berth, front and back. I get up as gracefully as I can, stow my suitcase on the flat rack nearby, and I take a seat.<\/strong><\/p>\n I say to myself,<\/strong><\/p>\n \u201cI\u2019m rusty. I\u2019m 74 years old. I haven\u2019t traveled in years.\u201d<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n \u201c<\/strong> The shuttle gets us to the terminal. We race through the Mexico City airport, pulling our trolley carts behind us, with our backpacks bouncing on our backs, only to discover that I\u2019ve lost one of our three boarding passes for the connecting flight to Leon, the closest town to San Miguel de Allende.<\/strong><\/p>\n I keep taking all three of our passports in and out of my iPad shoulder bag for every electronic airport baggage check we go through. Shoes off, belt off, backpack off. I have a titanium right hip, a metal fused thoracic spine. I keep setting off the sensors every time I go through. I\u2019ve packed laundry soap into a too-large plastic pill container. The TPA inspectors insist on searching my both trolley carry-on and backpack.<\/strong><\/p>\n Boy, am I rusty!<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n We race to the connecting gate. I lead the way.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u201cHurry up, you guys!\u201d<\/strong><\/p><\/blockquote>\n Nobody\u2019s there. The gate\u2019s empty.<\/strong><\/p>\n We\u2019ve missed our flight.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u2014\u2014\u2014\u2013<\/strong><\/p>\n I\u2019ve never missed a flight in my life.<\/strong><\/p>\n Now I have.<\/strong><\/p>\n I never collapsed into prayer position stepping onto a shuttle bus.<\/strong><\/p>\n Now I have.<\/strong><\/p>\n I\u2019ve never traveled at 74 years old.<\/strong><\/p>\n Now I have.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u2014\u2014\u2014\u2014<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/strong><\/p>\n
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Trules in Red Square, Moscow, 2018<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n
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